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8.30.2008
Tips For motorcycle clothing
When you want to buy a new helmet, motorcycle jacket, trousers, gloves or boots, what are the requirements? What are the different materials and what are the differences?How do you protect yourself against cold, heat and rain?
Difference way to enhance your safety
Primary safety
When talking about ways to enhance your safety on a motorcycle, most people think of helmets, knee- or elbow protectors or leather suits.
True, all these things are meant to make you safer. But don't forget that there is a more direct way to enhance your own safety.
You can enhance your safety by doing everything possible to avoid an accident (primary safety), or by making sure that the damage, in case of an accident, is as minimal as possible (secondary safety).
Car versus motorcycle
In fact, the big difference between driving a car and riding a motorcycle, with respect to safety, is that in cars the secondary safety is enormous (the car is a sort of safety cocoon around you), while on a motorcycle, the safety is almost entirely in your own hands (which means primary safety).
Fortunately, motorcycles are very good at primary safety: you need much less space to escape a dangerous situation.
One of the functions of clothing for motorcyclists is safety; another function is to ensure that your body doesn't get too cold or too hot. In fact, that function adds to your primary safety, because a well-functioning body is needed in order to be able to anticipate in traffic.
Secondary safety:Helmet and clothing
Objective and subjective safety
Only at the moment that you blew it, secondary safety comes into the game.
There is a danger in the many labels with "protection" and "safety" that are attached to motorcycler's clothing: it becomes easy to forget that safety is for the most part primary safety, that you yourself have to actively prevent accidents.
There is a second danger:many people are inclined to take more risk when they feel protected. Most people will ride more cautiously when they ride in shorts than in a full leather racing-suit.
Don't feel safer than you are
These are not arguments against clothing with protection, but is is good to be aware of these tendencies, and to keep in mind not to be trapped by them.
So, when your (secondary) safety is concerned, it is good to get as much objective information as you can: the wish of people to be "safe" inspires sellers to sell with "safe" sounding words and labels and materials. A lot of those words have no meaning at all!
Helmet
The fit
By far the most important aspect of a helmet is whether it fits well. The best advice therefore is to go to a shop where people know about helmets and can help you to check whether a helmet fits well.The helmet should fit rather tightly when you try it for the first time: when you shake your head, the helmet shouldn't move around.
Each helmet that is sold in Europe should be approved according to the ECE 22.05 norm. If a helmet doesn't show that it's approved, don't buy it.
Materials
Concerning the materials: a helmet has an outer scale that shouldn't break, and an inner scale that is there to absorb energy of the impact.
Very cheap helmets have an outer scale of ABS or polycarbonate. Don't buy them:they get damaged by UV-light, and you should throw them away after less than two years, and during those years their strength lessens.
More expensive helmets have an outer scale with a basis of glass fibre. Often, this is used in a composite together with fibres such as Dyneema, a special sort of polyethylene fibre, Aramide, a special sort of polyamide fibre (there are many kinds of aramide fibres, Kevlar is most widely known), and Carbon fibres (a sort of nylon that consist mostly of carbon). Those fibres have in common that they are light and strong at the same time.
The inner scale is in general of styropor.
Weight
The weight of a helmet is not only a matter of comfort; it is important with respect to safety as well.
A heavy helmet enhances, as you may imagine, the chance of a broken neck in case of an accident.
So, when you don't know which of two helmets to choose, choose the lightest one.
Age
These more expensive helmets stay good for 5 years. Buy a new one after those 5 years!
Full-face, cross or jet
At last, you have to choose between a full-face helmet, a jet helmet (see photo), or a cross helmet.Don't buy a "police helmet" that doesn't cover your temples: they don't offer enough protection.
There are hot arguments between fans of full-face helmets and fans of jet helmets. In short: the full-facers point at (theoretically) lesser safety for the face in a jet helmet; The jet helmeteers on the other hand never have fogged visors (and point to the theoretical extra chance of braking your neck with a full-face helmet).I think: buy the helmet with which you feel most comfortable.
Visor
Always wear a visor or goggles or safety glasses (or a combination) to protect your eyes againts stones or insects.
About Gloves
Gloves
Hands are important
Second in importance to keep well protected are you hands: the risk that they are damaged in case of a fall is fairly big, and you don't want to have to live with non-working hands.
So always wear at least a helmet and gloves.
The feeling
Your gloves should allow you to feel the handlebars very well, to feel what you are doing, and at the same time, they should protect against sliding.
Leather
In warm weather, nothing beats leather gloves. Kangarooleather is used more and more for the palm-side of gloves. It is strong and light at the same time, and slightly elastic, so you feel very well what you are doing.
Goretex
In colder circumstances, you are better equipped with gloves with a Goretex lining to keep dry hands.
Inner gloves
If you want really warm hands: a glove with a separate inner glove made from for instance Windstopper keeps you hands much warmer than a glove with a stitched in bulky liner, and at the same time, allows you the feel of the handlebars.
Around your wrist
An often overlooked aspect of gloves is how they fit around your wrist. It is very important that they will not just slide off your hands in case of a fall: otherwise, you could just as well ride without gloves.
So, test them by trying to get them off your hands without opening the adjustment around your wrist. If they just go off, don't buy them.'
Ankles
Ankles
The third place, considering risk on damage and amount of damage, is taken by your feet and ankles.
Shoes or boots that you wear on your motorcycle should cover your ankles. Further on, they should be sturdy enough to prevent your feet and ankles from getting broken in case of an accident.
Whether boots with metal plates inside, covering your toes, are a good form of protection is questionable: these metal plates could protect your toes, but they are able to cut them in two as well.
You don't have to buy boots that are manufactored especially for motorcycling: general safety boots or shoes work well (but mind metal plates), as do sturdy walking boots.
Changing gears
When buying shoes or boots that are not made with motorcycling in mind, check the material of the top of the left shoe: it should be tolerant of changing gears.
Protecting against sliding: Clothing
The surface of the road
Motorcycle clothing should protect you when sliding over the surface of the road, and against the impact of collisions with the same surface and with other objects. Those are two different stories.
The problem of sliding is that the surface of the road works as an enormous grater, and on top of that, much heat will be generated.So you need something that can withstand a grater, that takes long to get hot, and that doesn't melt at relatively low temperatures, or does something else nasty.
Leather: superior
Nothing still comes close to leather, concerning those properties.Only keep in mind that it should be good leather: minimal 1.2 mm thick, and of good quality.The stitches are also worth attention: they have to be double-stitched (always covered by a piece of leather): if leather trousers torn at the stitches it doesn't help you.
Kevlar: second
After leather comes, concerning the anti-slide-properties, at a great distance, Kevlar.Kevlar sounds like magic, so manufacturers have the tendency to add a few patches of Kevlar here and there because it sells well. But Kevlar doesn't save you when it's used in that way!Kevlar breaks easily, and only works to protect you in case of sliding when it is woven into other material. Only then does it serve to your protection. An example is Keprotec.
Third: Cordura
Most synthetic suits are made of Cordura, which comes at a distance after leather and again after Kevlar concerning the properties that we are looking for. There is always a number, 700 or 500 for instance. That's a measure for the thicknes of the fibre that is used.
Dynatec is a comparable material.
In short
In short: nothing beats a good leather suit. When you want a synthetic suit, choose one of Cordura or Dynatec, preferrably strengthened with leather or (woven-in) Kevlar on the right places.
Remember that a fancy label doesn't tell you anything: try to find out what they mean (sometimes they don't mean anything at all).
Protection Against Impact: Clothing
Impact of a collision
Beside protection when sliding, it would also be good if you had any protection against the impact of a collision. A collision with the road, with a car, or with whatever you encounter.
Protection against impact works in two ways: the impact can be distributed over a bigger area, or the impact can be absorbed.
Hard protection
Hard protection, like you see in protection for crossers, distribute the impact. Soft protection absorbs as much as possible of the impact.
Soft protection
The word "soft" protection is misleading: a piece of soft foam doesnt' do a thing. It should cost energy to squeeze such a piece of protection: only then it is able to absorb energy in case of a collision.
Fixed
Those pieces of protection only work when they are at the right place at the right time, that is, when you get involved in an accident. Often, they are not in the right place, because people are built differently, and many suits are wide so you can wear them over your clothing.You might think about buying a "protection vest": an elastic vest with protection for shoulders and elbows. The only problem with such protection is that you will often let it stay at home probably...
Cold
Keep warm
Active safety means that you protect yourself by avoiding accidents, by anticipating.In order to be able to do that, you should be comfortable. As such, protecting yourself against the cold, helps to enhance your safety.
Layers
Everybody knows, I suppose, that many different layers of clothing work better in the cold than one thick layer. An outer layer that protects you and keeps the wind outside, a layer to keep you dry, and then layers to keep you warm, such as fleece.
Head and neck
The area of your body that dissipates most of your body heat is your head, and your neck. So your first concern should be to keep your head and neck warm: always wear something of Windstopper Fleece around your neck, when it is cold, and make sure there are no openings between such a shawl and your helmet.
Hands and feet
Your extremities (hands and feet) stand, unfortunately, at the lowest point of the priority list that your "control center" keeps about your body. That means that the blood vessels towards your hands and feet are closed when your body temperature threatens to get lower than your body wants it to be.
So, the solution for cold hand and feet is not always to keep them warm: in the first place, you should keep the rest of your body warm!
After your body has been cared for, your hands and feet should be protected against the cold. Again, different layers are the key, and especially in the case of your hands, protection against the wind is very important.
Hand protectors can make a difference. For gloves, it is important that they don't get too bulky because in that case they will hinder your ability to handle the controls.Gloves with an inner layer of windstopper fleeece are better than gloves with a thick bulky lining.
Your boots or shoes should be wide enough to wear at least one pair of warm socks. You can also think about Canadian boots, lined with wool.
Electrical
At last: don't be afraid to buy eletrical vests, inner gloves or liners for your boots! As said before, your body should come first, so your first option would be an electrically heated vest. Because that really add warmth, they make it much more easy for your body to keep the right temperature.
Rain
When the weather is not really hot, you will get very cold when it's raining, and you get soaked. So don't get soaked!
Goretex
Goretex is "guaranteed to keep you dry", and because that guarantee is imposed on everyone using Goretex in clothing, by Gore, you can be certain of that guarantee. I don't know of any other waterproof liner with the same guarantee.
Gloves and cuffs
You should experiment with your gloves: in some cases, you keep your hands dry by wearing your gloves over the cuffs of your sleeves; in other cases you should tuck your gloves inside your sleeves.More and more jackets are sold with double cuffs: with a waterresistant outer and inner cuff. You tuck your gloves inbetween.
Long trousers
Concerning you feet: when you wear shoes (instead of high boots), it's important that your trousers are long enough to cover your ankles. Otherwise your feet will get wet from above, no matter how waterproof your shoes are.
Heat
Heat stroke
When the weather really gets hot, there comes a time when you will have to choose between primary and secondary safety: shoulder and knee protectors or Kevlar woven into the fabric of your jacket or trousers will result in an overheated body, eventually.
Manufacturers of motorcycle clothing use different ways for ventilation in clothing.
Zippers
One such a way is an extensive use of zippers. In general, that is a bad idea:When sliding over tarmac, you don't want zippers between your skin and the tarmac. Also, the weakest point of clothing, most of the time, is formed by the stitches, and zippers require many stitches.
Mesh
The use of mesh fabrics are another way to increase ventilation, although these materials of course never provide the same amount of protection as "solid" fabrics.
Leather
In general, leather will be cooler than synthetic suits, when there is wind. There are even jackets made out of perforated leather (though the same applies as for mesh fabric: don't expect the same amount of protection of them as from ordinary leather). But in some circumstances, leather is too hot, even when riding (as opposed to standing still).
Burned skin
When you would decide to ride with bare arms or legs, keep in mind that in the first place, you get very easily burnt without an adequate sunblock.In the second place, you will loose water in huge quantities that way, without noticing. Drinking enough water (and supply salt) becomes very urgent. In general, covering up your skin is better when the weather is really hot (remember the bedouins).
Head
An open-face helmet, or one that can be ventilated, really helps keeping your head cool.
At last, soaking a bandana in water, and wearing that around your neck, really helps as well.
How do i choose gear?
Fitting suit
A leather suit should fit perfectly, especially when you are sitting on the bike.
In a suit for all circumstances (watertight, winter lining, fitting over your daily clothes), practical matters are more important.
When trying on a suit, you can pay extra attention to:
The collar should fit snugly around your neck, without space where the wind will go through.
The front should be as watertight as the rest. That means that there should be a watertight layer beneath the zippers: water will leak through the zippers, and you don't want that water to reach your clothes underneath.
A coat has never enough pockets. I would like at least four pockets in the front, a long pocket in the back along the lower seam, at least one inner pocket, and preferrably one pocket that you can reach without opening the zipper, and is watertight (to put your wallet).
The more pockets are watertight, the better.
In the same way as the collar, the sleeves should fit around your wrists without openings.
It should be possible to wear the sleeves both over or under your gloves.
About the trousers: they should be longer than you expect, because your knees will be bent on your motorcycle.
Difference way to enhance your safety
Primary safety
When talking about ways to enhance your safety on a motorcycle, most people think of helmets, knee- or elbow protectors or leather suits.
True, all these things are meant to make you safer. But don't forget that there is a more direct way to enhance your own safety.
You can enhance your safety by doing everything possible to avoid an accident (primary safety), or by making sure that the damage, in case of an accident, is as minimal as possible (secondary safety).
Car versus motorcycle
In fact, the big difference between driving a car and riding a motorcycle, with respect to safety, is that in cars the secondary safety is enormous (the car is a sort of safety cocoon around you), while on a motorcycle, the safety is almost entirely in your own hands (which means primary safety).
Fortunately, motorcycles are very good at primary safety: you need much less space to escape a dangerous situation.
One of the functions of clothing for motorcyclists is safety; another function is to ensure that your body doesn't get too cold or too hot. In fact, that function adds to your primary safety, because a well-functioning body is needed in order to be able to anticipate in traffic.
Secondary safety:Helmet and clothing
Objective and subjective safety
Only at the moment that you blew it, secondary safety comes into the game.
There is a danger in the many labels with "protection" and "safety" that are attached to motorcycler's clothing: it becomes easy to forget that safety is for the most part primary safety, that you yourself have to actively prevent accidents.
There is a second danger:many people are inclined to take more risk when they feel protected. Most people will ride more cautiously when they ride in shorts than in a full leather racing-suit.
Don't feel safer than you are
These are not arguments against clothing with protection, but is is good to be aware of these tendencies, and to keep in mind not to be trapped by them.
So, when your (secondary) safety is concerned, it is good to get as much objective information as you can: the wish of people to be "safe" inspires sellers to sell with "safe" sounding words and labels and materials. A lot of those words have no meaning at all!
Helmet
The fit
By far the most important aspect of a helmet is whether it fits well. The best advice therefore is to go to a shop where people know about helmets and can help you to check whether a helmet fits well.The helmet should fit rather tightly when you try it for the first time: when you shake your head, the helmet shouldn't move around.
Each helmet that is sold in Europe should be approved according to the ECE 22.05 norm. If a helmet doesn't show that it's approved, don't buy it.
Materials
Concerning the materials: a helmet has an outer scale that shouldn't break, and an inner scale that is there to absorb energy of the impact.
Very cheap helmets have an outer scale of ABS or polycarbonate. Don't buy them:they get damaged by UV-light, and you should throw them away after less than two years, and during those years their strength lessens.
More expensive helmets have an outer scale with a basis of glass fibre. Often, this is used in a composite together with fibres such as Dyneema, a special sort of polyethylene fibre, Aramide, a special sort of polyamide fibre (there are many kinds of aramide fibres, Kevlar is most widely known), and Carbon fibres (a sort of nylon that consist mostly of carbon). Those fibres have in common that they are light and strong at the same time.
The inner scale is in general of styropor.
Weight
The weight of a helmet is not only a matter of comfort; it is important with respect to safety as well.
A heavy helmet enhances, as you may imagine, the chance of a broken neck in case of an accident.
So, when you don't know which of two helmets to choose, choose the lightest one.
Age
These more expensive helmets stay good for 5 years. Buy a new one after those 5 years!
Full-face, cross or jet
At last, you have to choose between a full-face helmet, a jet helmet (see photo), or a cross helmet.Don't buy a "police helmet" that doesn't cover your temples: they don't offer enough protection.
There are hot arguments between fans of full-face helmets and fans of jet helmets. In short: the full-facers point at (theoretically) lesser safety for the face in a jet helmet; The jet helmeteers on the other hand never have fogged visors (and point to the theoretical extra chance of braking your neck with a full-face helmet).I think: buy the helmet with which you feel most comfortable.
Visor
Always wear a visor or goggles or safety glasses (or a combination) to protect your eyes againts stones or insects.
About Gloves
Gloves
Hands are important
Second in importance to keep well protected are you hands: the risk that they are damaged in case of a fall is fairly big, and you don't want to have to live with non-working hands.
So always wear at least a helmet and gloves.
The feeling
Your gloves should allow you to feel the handlebars very well, to feel what you are doing, and at the same time, they should protect against sliding.
Leather
In warm weather, nothing beats leather gloves. Kangarooleather is used more and more for the palm-side of gloves. It is strong and light at the same time, and slightly elastic, so you feel very well what you are doing.
Goretex
In colder circumstances, you are better equipped with gloves with a Goretex lining to keep dry hands.
Inner gloves
If you want really warm hands: a glove with a separate inner glove made from for instance Windstopper keeps you hands much warmer than a glove with a stitched in bulky liner, and at the same time, allows you the feel of the handlebars.
Around your wrist
An often overlooked aspect of gloves is how they fit around your wrist. It is very important that they will not just slide off your hands in case of a fall: otherwise, you could just as well ride without gloves.
So, test them by trying to get them off your hands without opening the adjustment around your wrist. If they just go off, don't buy them.'
Ankles
Ankles
The third place, considering risk on damage and amount of damage, is taken by your feet and ankles.
Shoes or boots that you wear on your motorcycle should cover your ankles. Further on, they should be sturdy enough to prevent your feet and ankles from getting broken in case of an accident.
Whether boots with metal plates inside, covering your toes, are a good form of protection is questionable: these metal plates could protect your toes, but they are able to cut them in two as well.
You don't have to buy boots that are manufactored especially for motorcycling: general safety boots or shoes work well (but mind metal plates), as do sturdy walking boots.
Changing gears
When buying shoes or boots that are not made with motorcycling in mind, check the material of the top of the left shoe: it should be tolerant of changing gears.
Protecting against sliding: Clothing
The surface of the road
Motorcycle clothing should protect you when sliding over the surface of the road, and against the impact of collisions with the same surface and with other objects. Those are two different stories.
The problem of sliding is that the surface of the road works as an enormous grater, and on top of that, much heat will be generated.So you need something that can withstand a grater, that takes long to get hot, and that doesn't melt at relatively low temperatures, or does something else nasty.
Leather: superior
Nothing still comes close to leather, concerning those properties.Only keep in mind that it should be good leather: minimal 1.2 mm thick, and of good quality.The stitches are also worth attention: they have to be double-stitched (always covered by a piece of leather): if leather trousers torn at the stitches it doesn't help you.
Kevlar: second
After leather comes, concerning the anti-slide-properties, at a great distance, Kevlar.Kevlar sounds like magic, so manufacturers have the tendency to add a few patches of Kevlar here and there because it sells well. But Kevlar doesn't save you when it's used in that way!Kevlar breaks easily, and only works to protect you in case of sliding when it is woven into other material. Only then does it serve to your protection. An example is Keprotec.
Third: Cordura
Most synthetic suits are made of Cordura, which comes at a distance after leather and again after Kevlar concerning the properties that we are looking for. There is always a number, 700 or 500 for instance. That's a measure for the thicknes of the fibre that is used.
Dynatec is a comparable material.
In short
In short: nothing beats a good leather suit. When you want a synthetic suit, choose one of Cordura or Dynatec, preferrably strengthened with leather or (woven-in) Kevlar on the right places.
Remember that a fancy label doesn't tell you anything: try to find out what they mean (sometimes they don't mean anything at all).
Protection Against Impact: Clothing
Impact of a collision
Beside protection when sliding, it would also be good if you had any protection against the impact of a collision. A collision with the road, with a car, or with whatever you encounter.
Protection against impact works in two ways: the impact can be distributed over a bigger area, or the impact can be absorbed.
Hard protection
Hard protection, like you see in protection for crossers, distribute the impact. Soft protection absorbs as much as possible of the impact.
Soft protection
The word "soft" protection is misleading: a piece of soft foam doesnt' do a thing. It should cost energy to squeeze such a piece of protection: only then it is able to absorb energy in case of a collision.
Fixed
Those pieces of protection only work when they are at the right place at the right time, that is, when you get involved in an accident. Often, they are not in the right place, because people are built differently, and many suits are wide so you can wear them over your clothing.You might think about buying a "protection vest": an elastic vest with protection for shoulders and elbows. The only problem with such protection is that you will often let it stay at home probably...
Cold
Keep warm
Active safety means that you protect yourself by avoiding accidents, by anticipating.In order to be able to do that, you should be comfortable. As such, protecting yourself against the cold, helps to enhance your safety.
Layers
Everybody knows, I suppose, that many different layers of clothing work better in the cold than one thick layer. An outer layer that protects you and keeps the wind outside, a layer to keep you dry, and then layers to keep you warm, such as fleece.
Head and neck
The area of your body that dissipates most of your body heat is your head, and your neck. So your first concern should be to keep your head and neck warm: always wear something of Windstopper Fleece around your neck, when it is cold, and make sure there are no openings between such a shawl and your helmet.
Hands and feet
Your extremities (hands and feet) stand, unfortunately, at the lowest point of the priority list that your "control center" keeps about your body. That means that the blood vessels towards your hands and feet are closed when your body temperature threatens to get lower than your body wants it to be.
So, the solution for cold hand and feet is not always to keep them warm: in the first place, you should keep the rest of your body warm!
After your body has been cared for, your hands and feet should be protected against the cold. Again, different layers are the key, and especially in the case of your hands, protection against the wind is very important.
Hand protectors can make a difference. For gloves, it is important that they don't get too bulky because in that case they will hinder your ability to handle the controls.Gloves with an inner layer of windstopper fleeece are better than gloves with a thick bulky lining.
Your boots or shoes should be wide enough to wear at least one pair of warm socks. You can also think about Canadian boots, lined with wool.
Electrical
At last: don't be afraid to buy eletrical vests, inner gloves or liners for your boots! As said before, your body should come first, so your first option would be an electrically heated vest. Because that really add warmth, they make it much more easy for your body to keep the right temperature.
Rain
When the weather is not really hot, you will get very cold when it's raining, and you get soaked. So don't get soaked!
Goretex
Goretex is "guaranteed to keep you dry", and because that guarantee is imposed on everyone using Goretex in clothing, by Gore, you can be certain of that guarantee. I don't know of any other waterproof liner with the same guarantee.
Gloves and cuffs
You should experiment with your gloves: in some cases, you keep your hands dry by wearing your gloves over the cuffs of your sleeves; in other cases you should tuck your gloves inside your sleeves.More and more jackets are sold with double cuffs: with a waterresistant outer and inner cuff. You tuck your gloves inbetween.
Long trousers
Concerning you feet: when you wear shoes (instead of high boots), it's important that your trousers are long enough to cover your ankles. Otherwise your feet will get wet from above, no matter how waterproof your shoes are.
Heat
Heat stroke
When the weather really gets hot, there comes a time when you will have to choose between primary and secondary safety: shoulder and knee protectors or Kevlar woven into the fabric of your jacket or trousers will result in an overheated body, eventually.
Manufacturers of motorcycle clothing use different ways for ventilation in clothing.
Zippers
One such a way is an extensive use of zippers. In general, that is a bad idea:When sliding over tarmac, you don't want zippers between your skin and the tarmac. Also, the weakest point of clothing, most of the time, is formed by the stitches, and zippers require many stitches.
Mesh
The use of mesh fabrics are another way to increase ventilation, although these materials of course never provide the same amount of protection as "solid" fabrics.
Leather
In general, leather will be cooler than synthetic suits, when there is wind. There are even jackets made out of perforated leather (though the same applies as for mesh fabric: don't expect the same amount of protection of them as from ordinary leather). But in some circumstances, leather is too hot, even when riding (as opposed to standing still).
Burned skin
When you would decide to ride with bare arms or legs, keep in mind that in the first place, you get very easily burnt without an adequate sunblock.In the second place, you will loose water in huge quantities that way, without noticing. Drinking enough water (and supply salt) becomes very urgent. In general, covering up your skin is better when the weather is really hot (remember the bedouins).
Head
An open-face helmet, or one that can be ventilated, really helps keeping your head cool.
At last, soaking a bandana in water, and wearing that around your neck, really helps as well.
How do i choose gear?
Fitting suit
A leather suit should fit perfectly, especially when you are sitting on the bike.
In a suit for all circumstances (watertight, winter lining, fitting over your daily clothes), practical matters are more important.
When trying on a suit, you can pay extra attention to:
The collar should fit snugly around your neck, without space where the wind will go through.
The front should be as watertight as the rest. That means that there should be a watertight layer beneath the zippers: water will leak through the zippers, and you don't want that water to reach your clothes underneath.
A coat has never enough pockets. I would like at least four pockets in the front, a long pocket in the back along the lower seam, at least one inner pocket, and preferrably one pocket that you can reach without opening the zipper, and is watertight (to put your wallet).
The more pockets are watertight, the better.
In the same way as the collar, the sleeves should fit around your wrists without openings.
It should be possible to wear the sleeves both over or under your gloves.
About the trousers: they should be longer than you expect, because your knees will be bent on your motorcycle.
How to prevent accidents
Before starting with my post let me tell you how I see things…
For me, there are two kinds of motorcycle riders: the ones that have had (or will have an accident) and the ones that don’t ride. It’s like bicycling or skiing, one time or another you will go down. Sad but true…
Now, not every motorcycle accident should have serious consequences and it is my intent with this post to provide some guidance to minimize the risks and, with some luck, to help you become one of the very few motorcyclists that actually ride and don’t have accidents.
Back to my post…
A few tips to prevent motorcycle accidents
First, here are some basic things you can do to prevent motorcycle accidents and increase your safety level.
* Be responsible not only for yourself, but also for all the other motorists and drivers out there as well. Respect and follow the rules of the road.
* Make sure your motorcycle is in good working conditions
* Never forget to wear proper attire. Bare minimum: helmet, eyewear, gloves, and riding jacket.
* Never ride past the speed limit and avoid riding in adverse weather.
* Make sure that all your safety and signalization controls are within easy reach and operable in both day and night.
* Don’t drink and ride. Although drinking and driving warnings are heavily promoted to car drivers, it’s no less important to motorcycle riders. Each year, the number of motorcycle accidents gives us a new statistic to evaluate, and it almost always includes accidents that involve alcohol consumption.
* Look out for bad drivers. Car drivers aren’t always as observant on the road as they should be and as a result, their careless driving skills contribute to the current quality (and quantity) of motorcycle accident statistics that we already have. That’s why it’s so important, as a motorcycle rider, that you not only ride on the offensive, but on the defensive as well.
* Stay alert. Beware of road hazards and traffic jams.
Motorcycle accidents and your skill level
The more experienced you are at motorcycle riding, the less likely it is that you’ll have an accident. Experience really is the best teacher and from this experience, you’ll understand why complying with the rules of the road is so crucial to safety. But that doesn’t mean experienced drivers are off the hook. Even the most experienced motorcycle rider can have an accident and it doesn’t seem to matter how many riding years are behind him.
New motorcycle riders who aren’t too confident in their skills should stick to paths that aren’t heavily used by major traffic. That includes busy streets and highways - two sources of heavy and dangerous traffic to the motorcycling “newbie.”
Preventing motorcycle accidents by making good choices
The only things that seem to really protect riders are things like good equipment and good choices.
For example, a good choice would be to use signal lights as a way to communicate with others on the road and indicate that you’re trying to get around them or that you’re within a close proximity. In this situation, another good choice would be to ensure these signal lights are in tip-top condition as well. Signal lights aren’t available on older bikes so riders of older models should use hand signals to communicate with other travelers.
Other good choices involve making the decision to correctly assess distances between you and other drivers — especially at night. It’s reasonable to expect that two visible headlights belong to a car, van, or truck, but what if there’s only one light visible? A single, shining headlight could belong to another motorcycle, but it could also belong to a bigger vehicle with only one working light! Maintaining a good distance between you and any vehicle regardless of what kind it is or how many working lights it has will help prevent what could be a tragic event.
It’s not that all accidents are avoidable, but then again, a good majority of them can be prevented just by following the advice herein, obeying laws, and use good ol’ common sense. By doing your part as a responsible motorcycle rider, you’ll increase your chances of keeping the roads safe for everyone and enjoy motorcycle riding for many years.
Do you have other tips or comments that can help our readers to prevent motorcycle accidents? Share them in this post.
Have a good and safe ride!
For me, there are two kinds of motorcycle riders: the ones that have had (or will have an accident) and the ones that don’t ride. It’s like bicycling or skiing, one time or another you will go down. Sad but true…
Now, not every motorcycle accident should have serious consequences and it is my intent with this post to provide some guidance to minimize the risks and, with some luck, to help you become one of the very few motorcyclists that actually ride and don’t have accidents.
Back to my post…
A few tips to prevent motorcycle accidents
First, here are some basic things you can do to prevent motorcycle accidents and increase your safety level.
* Be responsible not only for yourself, but also for all the other motorists and drivers out there as well. Respect and follow the rules of the road.
* Make sure your motorcycle is in good working conditions
* Never forget to wear proper attire. Bare minimum: helmet, eyewear, gloves, and riding jacket.
* Never ride past the speed limit and avoid riding in adverse weather.
* Make sure that all your safety and signalization controls are within easy reach and operable in both day and night.
* Don’t drink and ride. Although drinking and driving warnings are heavily promoted to car drivers, it’s no less important to motorcycle riders. Each year, the number of motorcycle accidents gives us a new statistic to evaluate, and it almost always includes accidents that involve alcohol consumption.
* Look out for bad drivers. Car drivers aren’t always as observant on the road as they should be and as a result, their careless driving skills contribute to the current quality (and quantity) of motorcycle accident statistics that we already have. That’s why it’s so important, as a motorcycle rider, that you not only ride on the offensive, but on the defensive as well.
* Stay alert. Beware of road hazards and traffic jams.
Motorcycle accidents and your skill level
The more experienced you are at motorcycle riding, the less likely it is that you’ll have an accident. Experience really is the best teacher and from this experience, you’ll understand why complying with the rules of the road is so crucial to safety. But that doesn’t mean experienced drivers are off the hook. Even the most experienced motorcycle rider can have an accident and it doesn’t seem to matter how many riding years are behind him.
New motorcycle riders who aren’t too confident in their skills should stick to paths that aren’t heavily used by major traffic. That includes busy streets and highways - two sources of heavy and dangerous traffic to the motorcycling “newbie.”
Preventing motorcycle accidents by making good choices
The only things that seem to really protect riders are things like good equipment and good choices.
For example, a good choice would be to use signal lights as a way to communicate with others on the road and indicate that you’re trying to get around them or that you’re within a close proximity. In this situation, another good choice would be to ensure these signal lights are in tip-top condition as well. Signal lights aren’t available on older bikes so riders of older models should use hand signals to communicate with other travelers.
Other good choices involve making the decision to correctly assess distances between you and other drivers — especially at night. It’s reasonable to expect that two visible headlights belong to a car, van, or truck, but what if there’s only one light visible? A single, shining headlight could belong to another motorcycle, but it could also belong to a bigger vehicle with only one working light! Maintaining a good distance between you and any vehicle regardless of what kind it is or how many working lights it has will help prevent what could be a tragic event.
It’s not that all accidents are avoidable, but then again, a good majority of them can be prevented just by following the advice herein, obeying laws, and use good ol’ common sense. By doing your part as a responsible motorcycle rider, you’ll increase your chances of keeping the roads safe for everyone and enjoy motorcycle riding for many years.
Do you have other tips or comments that can help our readers to prevent motorcycle accidents? Share them in this post.
Have a good and safe ride!
8.18.2008
TIPS FOR YOUR MOTORCYCLES TIRES
TIPS FOR YOUR MOTORCYCLES TIRES
Please don’t ever make the mistake of thinking all motorcycle tires are the same. Each motorcycle requires its own type of tire that’s even further deemed appropriate by its specific use. While that’s all explicit and I talked about it in my previous post about choosing motorcycle tires, there are some general caring practices that can be applied to all tire types.
Good working tires will considerably contribute to the wonderful experience that only motorcycling can afford as well as to a safe ride. Motorcycle tires can also be expensive so you’re well advised to take good care of them.
Below you’ll find 10 tips that will help will help extend the life of any motorcycle tire regardless of its type or use.
Tip #1 - Keep your tires at the right pressure. They will perform better and last longer.
Always carry a pressure gauge in your bike and check air pressure at least once a week. Under inflated or over inflated tires will wear out faster and can compromise your safety.
Tip #2 - When mounting new tires, always balance the tire and rim. This will avoid vibration while riding as well as premature tire wear.
Tip #3 – Always “break in” new motorcycle tires. Every new tire could use a good break-in period. This will enhance your tires’ performance over their lifetime of service. After installing new tires on your motorcycle, take the bike out for a few easy and light rides just for the purpose of breaking in the new tires. After the first 100-200 miles, the new tires should be stable enough to accommodate fast accelerations, hard cornering and sharp breaking. Otherwise you could be faced with imbalance, low tire life and differing profiles on both the front and rear.
Tip #4 – When possible, keep new tires out of direct sunlight. Whether they’re on a motorcycle or not, direct sunlight (or more precisely, UV radiation) will chemically change the tire compounds and weaken bonds, dry the tires, and make them brittle ahead of time. The ozone in the air can react with the compounds in the tire too and cause additional unwanted changes. Electric motors contribute to ozone production, so in addition to keeping tires out of sunlight, keep them away from things like large generators or air conditioning units.
Tip #5 - Never mount a front tire on the back of the bike or a rear tire on the front. The front and rear tires of a motorcycle have completely different design profiles.
Tip #6 - Replace motorcycle tires at the same time. If you ride a motorcycle with an old worn tire in the front and a spanking brand new tire in the back, the bike’s stability will decrease and create dangerous driving environment.
Tip #7 - Don’t mix radials with bias-ply motorcycle tires. Each one of these different types of tire gives a motorcycle a specific type of handling characteristic. Mixing them on one vehicle will only create an unstable condition, a rougher ride, and it will decrease the ability to hug corners.
Tip #8 - Clean tires with mild soap solution and rinse with plain clear water. Clean your tires frequently and especially after a long ride or after riding on rough terrain. Oil, gas, and street debris can degrade the tire’s compounds faster than usual. Take the time to clean off the tires so that their treads can a) move the way that they were designed to move, b) maximize grip and friction, and c) stabilize the bike. While cleaning your tires inspect them carefully and look out for cracks and embrittled surfaces.
Tip #9 – During long periods you don’t use your bike - as in winter - don’t outgas the bike’s tires because that will eventually make them brittle. Even if they’re not used, keep your tires at the right pressure.
Tip #10 – Do not overload your bike. Heavy add-ons can have a significant impact on the lifetime, the durability, and the performance of motorcycle tires. If you are planning to add a sidecar, saddlebags and/or other heavy accessories, ask your motorcycle dealer about your bike’s tires and which ones would be most appropriate for the intended purpose.
Well, that’s it for the moment…
You have other motorcycle tires maintenance tips you would like to share with our readers? I invite you to leave them in the comments of this post.
Enjoy the ride!
Please don’t ever make the mistake of thinking all motorcycle tires are the same. Each motorcycle requires its own type of tire that’s even further deemed appropriate by its specific use. While that’s all explicit and I talked about it in my previous post about choosing motorcycle tires, there are some general caring practices that can be applied to all tire types.
Good working tires will considerably contribute to the wonderful experience that only motorcycling can afford as well as to a safe ride. Motorcycle tires can also be expensive so you’re well advised to take good care of them.
Below you’ll find 10 tips that will help will help extend the life of any motorcycle tire regardless of its type or use.
Tip #1 - Keep your tires at the right pressure. They will perform better and last longer.
Always carry a pressure gauge in your bike and check air pressure at least once a week. Under inflated or over inflated tires will wear out faster and can compromise your safety.
Tip #2 - When mounting new tires, always balance the tire and rim. This will avoid vibration while riding as well as premature tire wear.
Tip #3 – Always “break in” new motorcycle tires. Every new tire could use a good break-in period. This will enhance your tires’ performance over their lifetime of service. After installing new tires on your motorcycle, take the bike out for a few easy and light rides just for the purpose of breaking in the new tires. After the first 100-200 miles, the new tires should be stable enough to accommodate fast accelerations, hard cornering and sharp breaking. Otherwise you could be faced with imbalance, low tire life and differing profiles on both the front and rear.
Tip #4 – When possible, keep new tires out of direct sunlight. Whether they’re on a motorcycle or not, direct sunlight (or more precisely, UV radiation) will chemically change the tire compounds and weaken bonds, dry the tires, and make them brittle ahead of time. The ozone in the air can react with the compounds in the tire too and cause additional unwanted changes. Electric motors contribute to ozone production, so in addition to keeping tires out of sunlight, keep them away from things like large generators or air conditioning units.
Tip #5 - Never mount a front tire on the back of the bike or a rear tire on the front. The front and rear tires of a motorcycle have completely different design profiles.
Tip #6 - Replace motorcycle tires at the same time. If you ride a motorcycle with an old worn tire in the front and a spanking brand new tire in the back, the bike’s stability will decrease and create dangerous driving environment.
Tip #7 - Don’t mix radials with bias-ply motorcycle tires. Each one of these different types of tire gives a motorcycle a specific type of handling characteristic. Mixing them on one vehicle will only create an unstable condition, a rougher ride, and it will decrease the ability to hug corners.
Tip #8 - Clean tires with mild soap solution and rinse with plain clear water. Clean your tires frequently and especially after a long ride or after riding on rough terrain. Oil, gas, and street debris can degrade the tire’s compounds faster than usual. Take the time to clean off the tires so that their treads can a) move the way that they were designed to move, b) maximize grip and friction, and c) stabilize the bike. While cleaning your tires inspect them carefully and look out for cracks and embrittled surfaces.
Tip #9 – During long periods you don’t use your bike - as in winter - don’t outgas the bike’s tires because that will eventually make them brittle. Even if they’re not used, keep your tires at the right pressure.
Tip #10 – Do not overload your bike. Heavy add-ons can have a significant impact on the lifetime, the durability, and the performance of motorcycle tires. If you are planning to add a sidecar, saddlebags and/or other heavy accessories, ask your motorcycle dealer about your bike’s tires and which ones would be most appropriate for the intended purpose.
Well, that’s it for the moment…
You have other motorcycle tires maintenance tips you would like to share with our readers? I invite you to leave them in the comments of this post.
Enjoy the ride!
Motorcycling with a Passenger
Motorcycling with a Passenger: Double the Pleasure, Double the Fun
Some simple preparations and communications can make the difference between a pleasant motorcycle passengering experience and a disaster.
Dear Rider,If you're lucky enough to have someone you care for on the back of your motorcycle, you should consider it a gift in trust. Even if you are an experienced rider, there is much to know about carrying a passenger. I'm not speaking solely of how riding double affects the behavior of your machine, I'm also talking about simple comfort and convenience factors that will make any ride more pleasant for both of you.
Adjust your bike's rear suspension for the extra load (see your owner's manual).
Always make sure your passenger has proper riding gear, even if it isn't a perfect fit. Have her arrive bikeside in her own over-the-ankle boots, jeans and layers on top. If she doesn't have the following, provide them: a decent-fitting helmet, leather gloves that fasten around the wrist and a protective jacket (leather or heavy Cordura).
Educate her about the bike -- what's hot, where to hold, where she'll put her feet and also how she'll mount. You obviously want to make sure she waits until you're braced. When you're ready, do you want her to use the footpeg as a step, or swing a leg from the ground? Can she use your shoulders for balance?
Before you even get on the bike, tell her how she'll hold on. Both arms around the waist? Or do you have a real grab rail where she can place one hand? Unless you have a backrest, she must hold your waist with at least one hand. Warn her not to use the strap across the seat, which is a worthless style element.
If you're dealing with a virgin, advise her ahead of time not to put her feet down at stops or grab your arms or shoulders while you're riding. Explain that when you corner she needs to relax and not lean against the turn, which is the usual impulse.
Devise a system of communication before you ride away. Maybe it's one tap on the right shoulder to say, "When you get a chance I'd like to stop." Two taps for, "It's urgent." Maybe a tap on the left shoulder could mean, "Please slow down." It's easy and fun to come up with your own language.
Anticipate that your bike will handle differently. It may steer less readily on initial lean, but once in a turn, the addition of weight up high may cause a more abrupt dip. You will also lose some braking efficiency, so start stopping sooner.
While it's easy to adapt to these changes in your bike's handling, it is more challenging to actually improve your skill to enhance the two-up experience. Approach every maneuver -- accelerating, shifting, cornering, braking -- with an eggshell-smoothness, and you'll help your passenger keep her seat. (Remember that if she bumps your helmet with hers on shifting or braking, it's entirely your fault. When you're riding well, she'll be able to stay neutral.)
Know that your bike will drag more readily with the added weight. Remind your passenger (and yourself) not to panic when it happens.
Plan to stop every so often just to check her comfort and emotional state.
As an occasional passenger, I can tell you that the one most affirming and endearing gesture a rider can give his co-pilot midride is an adoring pat on the thigh. For the best results, repeat this act of appreciation once each hour, or every 50 miles, whichever comes first.
Dear Passenger,
First things first. Do you really trust this guy? That's the number-one thing we want passengers to mull over before they accept a ride on the back of a motorcycle. It doesn't matter if he's your father, a first date or your husband of 20 years; you must not take this question lightly. You're gambling your very life on faith in his skill. If you doubt it, say no. If you're not sure, ask questions: How long have you been riding? How long riding this particular bike? Have you ridden with a passenger before?
Riding as a passenger can be a very fun, relaxing experience, not to mention a fulfilling, intimate way to connect with the person you care about. So once you're comfortable with his abilities, here's what you need to know to develop your own.
Aside from trust, proper gear is the second most important component of a safe, comfortable ride. A full-face helmet is essential to avoid head and facial injuries, but it's useless in a crash if it does not pass the following test: Fasten the chin strap snugly, then grab the rear of the helmet and pull it up and forward simultaneously, trying to pull it off over your chin. If it comes off, it fails.
Arrive bikeside with over-the-ankle boots, but not the type that slide off easily (for obvious reasons). If you are wearing laces (zippers or hook-and-loop fasteners are better), carefully double-knot and tuck the bow under your pant cuff to lessen the chances of the laces coming loose and getting wrapped on the peg or, disastrously, in the rear wheel. Gloves should be leather, your size, and fasten snugly around the wrists. You are not wearing these for comfort, you know, so forget the cute mittens.
Denim is popular, but just so you know, it sucks at protecting you. We are all guilty for wearing it for its comfort, versatility and affordability, but you can do better. Leather is always the first choice, followed by heavy-weave Cordura nylon. Strategically placed armor inserts, of course, are like IQ scores. Einstein would have worn plenty.
It's good to wear layers under your protective jacket. Motorcycling is a debate with the elements, and there is no way to predict turns in temperature.
Make sure you and your partner are clear about what you expect from any ride, whether a short initiation, weekend getaway or cross-country adventure. How long will you be on the bike? How often will you stop? What type of roads will you be traveling on? City streets? Winding back roads? A high-speed freeway?
Make sure your pilot has instructed you on how and when to mount the bike, where to place your feet, how to hold on, and also how to communicate while you're moving, since you won't be able to talk.
When you're on a new bike, check to make sure your heels will not contact the exhaust pipes. Most rubber will melt readily, which ruins the boots for walking and mucks up the chrome, too.
Once you're on the road, relax. It's hugely important for a passenger to be physically in tune with the movements of both the pilot and bike. We call this being "neutral." Especially in turns, when your impulse is to sit up, away from the lean, keep your body fluid and in line with the bike. It cannot just fall over, but if you make abrupt moves on the back during cornering, you will unsettle the machine, which can cause dangerous handling issues.
Balancing your upper body will make the ride more pleasant for you and the rider. This goes hand-in-hand with predicting how the bike's movements will affect you. Shift and hold your weight over the hips when the bike accelerates, for example, and lean oh-so-slightly backward on braking. You'll learn to predict when the rider shifts as well, and you'll be able to absorb the movement in your torso. By the way, the smoother (read: better) he is, the easier this will be for you.
Never put your feet down at stops. If your pilot asks you to, he shouldn't be riding motorcycles.
Don't panic if the extreme lower parts of the bike scrape on the ground during hard cornering. It will make a loud noise, which can be alarming even to veteran passengers. While this isn't a good design characteristic, it's a quite common occurrence on cruisers. If you become alarmed and jump or shift your weight, that might cause a real problem, however.
Never be uncomfortable telling your pilot how you are really feeling. If you are uncomfortable, he should be understanding and make adjustments, whether it's a shortened ride, a change of seats or the addition of a backrest. It's all about finding solutions. Don't just suck up your discomfort, because the memory will affect your decision to ride again. Keep an open mind. Fine-tuning is infinite.
The whole idea behind these tips is to increase your chances of a next time. And a time after that. We too often hear stories about passengers who tried it once and said, "Never again." The number-one cause is poor communication up front. (Number two is a dumb-ass rider trying to impress his passenger with speed and antics, but we know that's not you.) Nail down your expectations before you ride, and you'll both prosper.
Behind every successful man is a strong woman? Eh, maybe. Behind every contented man is a happy motorcycle passenger? More likely.
Some simple preparations and communications can make the difference between a pleasant motorcycle passengering experience and a disaster.
Dear Rider,If you're lucky enough to have someone you care for on the back of your motorcycle, you should consider it a gift in trust. Even if you are an experienced rider, there is much to know about carrying a passenger. I'm not speaking solely of how riding double affects the behavior of your machine, I'm also talking about simple comfort and convenience factors that will make any ride more pleasant for both of you.
Adjust your bike's rear suspension for the extra load (see your owner's manual).
Always make sure your passenger has proper riding gear, even if it isn't a perfect fit. Have her arrive bikeside in her own over-the-ankle boots, jeans and layers on top. If she doesn't have the following, provide them: a decent-fitting helmet, leather gloves that fasten around the wrist and a protective jacket (leather or heavy Cordura).
Educate her about the bike -- what's hot, where to hold, where she'll put her feet and also how she'll mount. You obviously want to make sure she waits until you're braced. When you're ready, do you want her to use the footpeg as a step, or swing a leg from the ground? Can she use your shoulders for balance?
Before you even get on the bike, tell her how she'll hold on. Both arms around the waist? Or do you have a real grab rail where she can place one hand? Unless you have a backrest, she must hold your waist with at least one hand. Warn her not to use the strap across the seat, which is a worthless style element.
If you're dealing with a virgin, advise her ahead of time not to put her feet down at stops or grab your arms or shoulders while you're riding. Explain that when you corner she needs to relax and not lean against the turn, which is the usual impulse.
Devise a system of communication before you ride away. Maybe it's one tap on the right shoulder to say, "When you get a chance I'd like to stop." Two taps for, "It's urgent." Maybe a tap on the left shoulder could mean, "Please slow down." It's easy and fun to come up with your own language.
Anticipate that your bike will handle differently. It may steer less readily on initial lean, but once in a turn, the addition of weight up high may cause a more abrupt dip. You will also lose some braking efficiency, so start stopping sooner.
While it's easy to adapt to these changes in your bike's handling, it is more challenging to actually improve your skill to enhance the two-up experience. Approach every maneuver -- accelerating, shifting, cornering, braking -- with an eggshell-smoothness, and you'll help your passenger keep her seat. (Remember that if she bumps your helmet with hers on shifting or braking, it's entirely your fault. When you're riding well, she'll be able to stay neutral.)
Know that your bike will drag more readily with the added weight. Remind your passenger (and yourself) not to panic when it happens.
Plan to stop every so often just to check her comfort and emotional state.
As an occasional passenger, I can tell you that the one most affirming and endearing gesture a rider can give his co-pilot midride is an adoring pat on the thigh. For the best results, repeat this act of appreciation once each hour, or every 50 miles, whichever comes first.
Dear Passenger,
First things first. Do you really trust this guy? That's the number-one thing we want passengers to mull over before they accept a ride on the back of a motorcycle. It doesn't matter if he's your father, a first date or your husband of 20 years; you must not take this question lightly. You're gambling your very life on faith in his skill. If you doubt it, say no. If you're not sure, ask questions: How long have you been riding? How long riding this particular bike? Have you ridden with a passenger before?
Riding as a passenger can be a very fun, relaxing experience, not to mention a fulfilling, intimate way to connect with the person you care about. So once you're comfortable with his abilities, here's what you need to know to develop your own.
Aside from trust, proper gear is the second most important component of a safe, comfortable ride. A full-face helmet is essential to avoid head and facial injuries, but it's useless in a crash if it does not pass the following test: Fasten the chin strap snugly, then grab the rear of the helmet and pull it up and forward simultaneously, trying to pull it off over your chin. If it comes off, it fails.
Arrive bikeside with over-the-ankle boots, but not the type that slide off easily (for obvious reasons). If you are wearing laces (zippers or hook-and-loop fasteners are better), carefully double-knot and tuck the bow under your pant cuff to lessen the chances of the laces coming loose and getting wrapped on the peg or, disastrously, in the rear wheel. Gloves should be leather, your size, and fasten snugly around the wrists. You are not wearing these for comfort, you know, so forget the cute mittens.
Denim is popular, but just so you know, it sucks at protecting you. We are all guilty for wearing it for its comfort, versatility and affordability, but you can do better. Leather is always the first choice, followed by heavy-weave Cordura nylon. Strategically placed armor inserts, of course, are like IQ scores. Einstein would have worn plenty.
It's good to wear layers under your protective jacket. Motorcycling is a debate with the elements, and there is no way to predict turns in temperature.
Make sure you and your partner are clear about what you expect from any ride, whether a short initiation, weekend getaway or cross-country adventure. How long will you be on the bike? How often will you stop? What type of roads will you be traveling on? City streets? Winding back roads? A high-speed freeway?
Make sure your pilot has instructed you on how and when to mount the bike, where to place your feet, how to hold on, and also how to communicate while you're moving, since you won't be able to talk.
When you're on a new bike, check to make sure your heels will not contact the exhaust pipes. Most rubber will melt readily, which ruins the boots for walking and mucks up the chrome, too.
Once you're on the road, relax. It's hugely important for a passenger to be physically in tune with the movements of both the pilot and bike. We call this being "neutral." Especially in turns, when your impulse is to sit up, away from the lean, keep your body fluid and in line with the bike. It cannot just fall over, but if you make abrupt moves on the back during cornering, you will unsettle the machine, which can cause dangerous handling issues.
Balancing your upper body will make the ride more pleasant for you and the rider. This goes hand-in-hand with predicting how the bike's movements will affect you. Shift and hold your weight over the hips when the bike accelerates, for example, and lean oh-so-slightly backward on braking. You'll learn to predict when the rider shifts as well, and you'll be able to absorb the movement in your torso. By the way, the smoother (read: better) he is, the easier this will be for you.
Never put your feet down at stops. If your pilot asks you to, he shouldn't be riding motorcycles.
Don't panic if the extreme lower parts of the bike scrape on the ground during hard cornering. It will make a loud noise, which can be alarming even to veteran passengers. While this isn't a good design characteristic, it's a quite common occurrence on cruisers. If you become alarmed and jump or shift your weight, that might cause a real problem, however.
Never be uncomfortable telling your pilot how you are really feeling. If you are uncomfortable, he should be understanding and make adjustments, whether it's a shortened ride, a change of seats or the addition of a backrest. It's all about finding solutions. Don't just suck up your discomfort, because the memory will affect your decision to ride again. Keep an open mind. Fine-tuning is infinite.
The whole idea behind these tips is to increase your chances of a next time. And a time after that. We too often hear stories about passengers who tried it once and said, "Never again." The number-one cause is poor communication up front. (Number two is a dumb-ass rider trying to impress his passenger with speed and antics, but we know that's not you.) Nail down your expectations before you ride, and you'll both prosper.
Behind every successful man is a strong woman? Eh, maybe. Behind every contented man is a happy motorcycle passenger? More likely.
FOR YOUR KZ200 CLUB RIDING TIPS
Group Motorcycle Riding
There is security but also risks in numbers for motorcyclists who choose to ride in groups. Here are a few things to consider before you join a motorcycle convoy.
Personally, I'm not a fan of group motorcycle rides. Riding with a bunch of other motorcyclists slows you down, rearranges the rhythm of riding, and gets in the way of the independence that is at the heart of why I ride.
My idea of a large group is three people. I am most happy by myself or with one other rider I know and trust. Nonetheless, I frequently find myself participating in group rides at various events and new-model introductions or in the process of producing the magazine. As a result, I am frequently reminded of the mistakes even good riders sometimes make when put in a group. Riding in a group can pose a variety of safety challenges.
The proximity of other riders, as when you are close to any other vehicle, presents a potential risk. If you wander into each other's zones, you can cause one or both to crash. I have observed riders run onto the shoulder by other riders in their group who overlooked them or wandered off their intended paths while distracted. I have been rear-ended twice by people I was riding with. And I have heard of several riders who were injured when two or more bikes in a group collided. In one case, the lead rider slowed to make a left turn, but the riders following him did not signal and then got on their brakes hard. A rider farther back in the group was taken by surprise when they suddenly jumped on their brakes. He couldn't stop and sideswiped the bike in front of him as he tried to avoid it. One rider had his foot severed by a floorboard. Ride the Plan
Such a disorganized group of riders could only be a bunch of motorcycle journalists, who didn't go to the pre-ride briefing, assuming they knew it all. Photo by Henny Ray Abrahms.
Ideally, you know and trust the people you ride with. However, there has to be a first time for any riding companion. A pre-ride discussion of your plans, preferences, and requirements helps everyone avoid surprises. Talk about a pace, signals, details like fuel stops and routes, and make sure everyone gets to offer something. If you ride with a club, it may have a fairly detailed set of rules for group rides, with procedures for a variety of situations.
On the road, use those signals liberally and be sure that other riders are aware of your intentions so that no one is caught by surprise, which can lead to a collision like the one described above.
The group's leader should signal early and slow gradually. Ideally he knows the route intimately and has a plan to get everyone safely along it without disrupting other traffic. But if it is his first time there, he may get surprised too and have to make a quick decision such as whether to turn abruptly or miss the turn and try to find a way to get everyone turned around safely on down the road.
It's always good to have an experienced rider at the back of the group to ride sweep and attend to those who have problems. He should have a cellphone to call for help.
That's Why they Call Him Scary Harry Everybody loves a parade.
We just hope they are going real slow. The guy in the lower right, who has gotten out of line, looks like the safest one here.
If you aren't comfortable with the riders you end up riding with, give yourself plenty of margin until you discover your companions' habits. On one new model group ride, one rider consistently slowed and made lane changes into riders on his right. He didn't turn his head far enough to really see his blind spot and I think his glasses blocked his view. His loud pipes also drowned out the sounds of bikes near him. It wasn't long before this guy had a large buffer zone around him. He compounded the problem by getting upset and denying it when someone tried to point out the problem. He ended up riding -- and eating -- by himself.
If you aren't comfortable with what others in the group do, drop out before it causes trouble. A common problem is a speed differential. Slower riders often feel uncomfortable trying to maintain the pace of faster folks. They shouldn't try to. If the other riders complain that you are slowing them down, tell them to go ahead. You don't need the risk or the tickets. Problems can also arise when some group members have "a couple of beers" at a lunch stop or if they behave recklessly in other ways. Tell them to go ahead or go ahead yourself. Or take a side trip.
If you have an exhaust system that you think saves lives, other riders will probably be pleased if you deploy it at the back of the group, even if it means a loss of protection. Sidecars and trikes are also best at the back of the group or in a group of their own.
Keep It Together
When traveling with friends, you may be mutually dependent. For example, you might have one first-aid kit, one tire-repair kit, one set of good tools, and one cellular phone (to call for aid), each packed on a different bike. In this situation you probably want to stay together. The most certain way to do this is to make each rider responsible for the one behind him or her. If you don't see the rider behind you for a few minutes, signal the rider ahead if possible, then slow down or pull over and wait for the rider(s) behind you. If everyone in the group does this, you can avoid that 100 miles of back-tracking at night in the rain. However, it's still possible to get separated, such as when a rider who has fallen behind turns a different way than those ahead. To help your group get together again, use these three systems:
1. Give everyone an emergency phone number in writing to call (perhaps someone's answering machine which everyone knows the code for) or everyone's cell phone numbers. If you have just a single number, Murphy's Sixth Law of Communication says that phone's battery will be dead when the lost boys try to call it.
2. Agree on the next stop every time you all pause for gas, grub or sightseeing. Be precise, "the first gas station on the west side of town," for example.
3. Make sure everyone knows the evening's destination, preferably in writing.
Formation Flying
This group of posers (literally) is only slightly better. They are staggered but should be much more spread out, and probably single-file on this narrow little road. Photo by Dean Groover.
The basic group riding formation is familiar to most riders. The lead rider rides to the left of the lane, with the second rider to the right and a few lengths back. The third rider is a similar distance behind the second, and so on. This staggered formation leaves room for each bike to swerve to the side and provides reaction time to brake. But you can't change speed and the side of the lane at the same time. Riding side by side limits escape routes when a threat arises. When overtaking and passing traffic, the second rider follows the first, and the third hangs back to let the second pull in to the left to make the pass.
When roads get twisty or narrow, you should open up into a single-file formation. When you come to a stop at an intersection, tighten up into a two-abreast configuration at the stop. If you all stay in a single lane at intersections with two or more lanes each way, it gives the traffic behind you a chance to pass. While it is tempting to block an intersection so your entire group can go through, it is against the law. So is going leaving in large bunches at a time from a four-way stop. More than two (you can each say you thought the other was waiting) is also a request for citation.
One common problem I see with large groups is a failure to provide gaps for other traffic. On a two-lane road, it may be impossible for overtaking traffic to safely pass a line of a dozen or more motorcycles. Some members of the group may get run off the road if a driver tries to pass and has to pull back into the right lane when oncoming traffic appears. On a multi-lane road like an interstate, a long double column of motorcycles may trap a car on one side of it, blocking it from reaching an exit. Some riders act as if permitting a car to cross their column of bikes is a violation of their religious and constitutional rights, and can make a driver already in a panic about missing his exit quite dangerous.
Do address this problem. It's best to ride in sub-groups of four to six bikes and provide a gap of four or more car lengths between each sub-group. These groups can also be responsible for each other, taking care of other members of their group so that the entire fleet of bikes doesn't end up trying to squeeze onto the shoulder, which can create a real hazard.
If the group is stopping, make sure that everyone gets completely off the road. If you are arriving at a destination with a large group, bikes at the front should keep moving to allow room for the one behind to pull off the road.
Stupid Passing Tricks
Motorcyclists riding in large groups consistently do a bad job of passing slower traffic on two-lane roads, which can create a dangerous situation. Typically they cut back in too close to the car they just passed and immediately slow down. This not only annoys the driver, it leaves little room for the next rider coming up behind. He or she has to wedge in even closer to the front of the car being passed. I have seen riders get locked out of the lane because those ahead left no space for them to pass. When passing a car on a road with only one lane going each direction, keep your speed up after you have completed the pass, and don't slow back down until there is a gap large enough for all the riders behind you to pull back in and safely decelerate. Stay aware of what the riders behind you are doing. If you are farther back in the group, don't begin your pass until there is a gap ahead of the car for you and the other riders in your sub-group.
Finally, though it isn't a safety consideration, there is an art to fuel stops, providing you are all willing to use one pump (Use more if it is a very large group or you use different grades of fuel) and figure out who owes what later. If one or more riders get out of line and man the nozzles, the rest can simply march through. The first riders through then get the pumpers' bikes and roll them through. This system takes about a third of the time required when each rider has to get off his or her bike and pick up the nozzle and maybe a sixth of that required if each rider pays independently. Nobody rides a motorcycle to spend time in gas stations. (If you want a record, someone can write down the total cost after every bike is filled.) Riders at the back of the line can go the restroom immediately (asking someone to push their bikes through), and riders at the front can go later after their bikes and the pump handler's are fueled and moved out of the way.
The social aspect of group riding has much to recommend it. You have someone to share your experiences and anticipation. There is also security in numbers when the unexpected happens. Pay attention to new riding companions; you may learn something. Working through initial adjustments to each other is worth it, because when you find someone you enjoy riding with, you have usually found a special friendship too.
There is security but also risks in numbers for motorcyclists who choose to ride in groups. Here are a few things to consider before you join a motorcycle convoy.
Personally, I'm not a fan of group motorcycle rides. Riding with a bunch of other motorcyclists slows you down, rearranges the rhythm of riding, and gets in the way of the independence that is at the heart of why I ride.
My idea of a large group is three people. I am most happy by myself or with one other rider I know and trust. Nonetheless, I frequently find myself participating in group rides at various events and new-model introductions or in the process of producing the magazine. As a result, I am frequently reminded of the mistakes even good riders sometimes make when put in a group. Riding in a group can pose a variety of safety challenges.
The proximity of other riders, as when you are close to any other vehicle, presents a potential risk. If you wander into each other's zones, you can cause one or both to crash. I have observed riders run onto the shoulder by other riders in their group who overlooked them or wandered off their intended paths while distracted. I have been rear-ended twice by people I was riding with. And I have heard of several riders who were injured when two or more bikes in a group collided. In one case, the lead rider slowed to make a left turn, but the riders following him did not signal and then got on their brakes hard. A rider farther back in the group was taken by surprise when they suddenly jumped on their brakes. He couldn't stop and sideswiped the bike in front of him as he tried to avoid it. One rider had his foot severed by a floorboard. Ride the Plan
Such a disorganized group of riders could only be a bunch of motorcycle journalists, who didn't go to the pre-ride briefing, assuming they knew it all. Photo by Henny Ray Abrahms.
Ideally, you know and trust the people you ride with. However, there has to be a first time for any riding companion. A pre-ride discussion of your plans, preferences, and requirements helps everyone avoid surprises. Talk about a pace, signals, details like fuel stops and routes, and make sure everyone gets to offer something. If you ride with a club, it may have a fairly detailed set of rules for group rides, with procedures for a variety of situations.
On the road, use those signals liberally and be sure that other riders are aware of your intentions so that no one is caught by surprise, which can lead to a collision like the one described above.
The group's leader should signal early and slow gradually. Ideally he knows the route intimately and has a plan to get everyone safely along it without disrupting other traffic. But if it is his first time there, he may get surprised too and have to make a quick decision such as whether to turn abruptly or miss the turn and try to find a way to get everyone turned around safely on down the road.
It's always good to have an experienced rider at the back of the group to ride sweep and attend to those who have problems. He should have a cellphone to call for help.
That's Why they Call Him Scary Harry Everybody loves a parade.
We just hope they are going real slow. The guy in the lower right, who has gotten out of line, looks like the safest one here.
If you aren't comfortable with the riders you end up riding with, give yourself plenty of margin until you discover your companions' habits. On one new model group ride, one rider consistently slowed and made lane changes into riders on his right. He didn't turn his head far enough to really see his blind spot and I think his glasses blocked his view. His loud pipes also drowned out the sounds of bikes near him. It wasn't long before this guy had a large buffer zone around him. He compounded the problem by getting upset and denying it when someone tried to point out the problem. He ended up riding -- and eating -- by himself.
If you aren't comfortable with what others in the group do, drop out before it causes trouble. A common problem is a speed differential. Slower riders often feel uncomfortable trying to maintain the pace of faster folks. They shouldn't try to. If the other riders complain that you are slowing them down, tell them to go ahead. You don't need the risk or the tickets. Problems can also arise when some group members have "a couple of beers" at a lunch stop or if they behave recklessly in other ways. Tell them to go ahead or go ahead yourself. Or take a side trip.
If you have an exhaust system that you think saves lives, other riders will probably be pleased if you deploy it at the back of the group, even if it means a loss of protection. Sidecars and trikes are also best at the back of the group or in a group of their own.
Keep It Together
When traveling with friends, you may be mutually dependent. For example, you might have one first-aid kit, one tire-repair kit, one set of good tools, and one cellular phone (to call for aid), each packed on a different bike. In this situation you probably want to stay together. The most certain way to do this is to make each rider responsible for the one behind him or her. If you don't see the rider behind you for a few minutes, signal the rider ahead if possible, then slow down or pull over and wait for the rider(s) behind you. If everyone in the group does this, you can avoid that 100 miles of back-tracking at night in the rain. However, it's still possible to get separated, such as when a rider who has fallen behind turns a different way than those ahead. To help your group get together again, use these three systems:
1. Give everyone an emergency phone number in writing to call (perhaps someone's answering machine which everyone knows the code for) or everyone's cell phone numbers. If you have just a single number, Murphy's Sixth Law of Communication says that phone's battery will be dead when the lost boys try to call it.
2. Agree on the next stop every time you all pause for gas, grub or sightseeing. Be precise, "the first gas station on the west side of town," for example.
3. Make sure everyone knows the evening's destination, preferably in writing.
Formation Flying
This group of posers (literally) is only slightly better. They are staggered but should be much more spread out, and probably single-file on this narrow little road. Photo by Dean Groover.
The basic group riding formation is familiar to most riders. The lead rider rides to the left of the lane, with the second rider to the right and a few lengths back. The third rider is a similar distance behind the second, and so on. This staggered formation leaves room for each bike to swerve to the side and provides reaction time to brake. But you can't change speed and the side of the lane at the same time. Riding side by side limits escape routes when a threat arises. When overtaking and passing traffic, the second rider follows the first, and the third hangs back to let the second pull in to the left to make the pass.
When roads get twisty or narrow, you should open up into a single-file formation. When you come to a stop at an intersection, tighten up into a two-abreast configuration at the stop. If you all stay in a single lane at intersections with two or more lanes each way, it gives the traffic behind you a chance to pass. While it is tempting to block an intersection so your entire group can go through, it is against the law. So is going leaving in large bunches at a time from a four-way stop. More than two (you can each say you thought the other was waiting) is also a request for citation.
One common problem I see with large groups is a failure to provide gaps for other traffic. On a two-lane road, it may be impossible for overtaking traffic to safely pass a line of a dozen or more motorcycles. Some members of the group may get run off the road if a driver tries to pass and has to pull back into the right lane when oncoming traffic appears. On a multi-lane road like an interstate, a long double column of motorcycles may trap a car on one side of it, blocking it from reaching an exit. Some riders act as if permitting a car to cross their column of bikes is a violation of their religious and constitutional rights, and can make a driver already in a panic about missing his exit quite dangerous.
Do address this problem. It's best to ride in sub-groups of four to six bikes and provide a gap of four or more car lengths between each sub-group. These groups can also be responsible for each other, taking care of other members of their group so that the entire fleet of bikes doesn't end up trying to squeeze onto the shoulder, which can create a real hazard.
If the group is stopping, make sure that everyone gets completely off the road. If you are arriving at a destination with a large group, bikes at the front should keep moving to allow room for the one behind to pull off the road.
Stupid Passing Tricks
Motorcyclists riding in large groups consistently do a bad job of passing slower traffic on two-lane roads, which can create a dangerous situation. Typically they cut back in too close to the car they just passed and immediately slow down. This not only annoys the driver, it leaves little room for the next rider coming up behind. He or she has to wedge in even closer to the front of the car being passed. I have seen riders get locked out of the lane because those ahead left no space for them to pass. When passing a car on a road with only one lane going each direction, keep your speed up after you have completed the pass, and don't slow back down until there is a gap large enough for all the riders behind you to pull back in and safely decelerate. Stay aware of what the riders behind you are doing. If you are farther back in the group, don't begin your pass until there is a gap ahead of the car for you and the other riders in your sub-group.
Finally, though it isn't a safety consideration, there is an art to fuel stops, providing you are all willing to use one pump (Use more if it is a very large group or you use different grades of fuel) and figure out who owes what later. If one or more riders get out of line and man the nozzles, the rest can simply march through. The first riders through then get the pumpers' bikes and roll them through. This system takes about a third of the time required when each rider has to get off his or her bike and pick up the nozzle and maybe a sixth of that required if each rider pays independently. Nobody rides a motorcycle to spend time in gas stations. (If you want a record, someone can write down the total cost after every bike is filled.) Riders at the back of the line can go the restroom immediately (asking someone to push their bikes through), and riders at the front can go later after their bikes and the pump handler's are fueled and moved out of the way.
The social aspect of group riding has much to recommend it. You have someone to share your experiences and anticipation. There is also security in numbers when the unexpected happens. Pay attention to new riding companions; you may learn something. Working through initial adjustments to each other is worth it, because when you find someone you enjoy riding with, you have usually found a special friendship too.
8.16.2008
HELMET SAFETY CAMPAIGN
A CHILD HELMET IS NOT AN ACCESSORY
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IF NOT FASTENED, IT'S NOT PROTECTING
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IF NOT FASTENED, IT'S NOT PROTECTING
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8.14.2008
Pictures from BBMC's Event
Trere are some picture from BBMC's event
tHE 5 Wheel Motorcycle
HANSIP HARLEY DAVIDSON...Hehehehe
WLA Motorcycle Here.....
Binter Merzy Here too....
BBMC Member Bike
BBMC Member Bike
Harley Davidson
Other Harley Davidson
tHE 5 Wheel Motorcycle
HANSIP HARLEY DAVIDSON...Hehehehe
WLA Motorcycle Here.....
Binter Merzy Here too....
BBMC Member Bike
BBMC Member Bike
Harley Davidson
Other Harley Davidson
8.02.2008
Kawasaki KZ 200 Owners (Merzymania) at Bikers Brotherhood MC (BBMC) event
At the age of 20th years old, The Bikers Brotherhood Motorcycle Club (BBMC) got spread out the great event at Saparua Sport Complex Bandung – Indonesia, at Saturday (19/07/2008) and Sunday (20/20/2008). In that event I’ve got to see 1 Main stage and 3 other support stages stand up, to entertaint a lot of the art performance.
From the Modern Band with the various artist to Debus, Banjidor, and Pencak silat as the traditional art are showing at the stage performing. Every yearly tradition The Classic motorcycle Contest, Rolling Thunder, Choosing of “Miss Brotherhood Contest” are not to forgot to performe.
All to see at that Sport Complex is Very Great event when the field like to see tight for Perform all of actions go on. BBMC not only invite for motorcycles club fellow but they are invite for pioneering of community also, like Indonesian Veteran Legion, Military, Boy Scouts, Mountaineering, Bureaucrat , Paskibraka, and also the Indonesian environtment means.
The conditions always grows, now BBMC is not simply corps of the old motorcycles. Momentum 100 years national evocation also soul of all network event. BBMC invites all element of public, involves in importance struggle of the former warriors to look after and honour stand of this country. one of its form realization through even is having nuance this is nationality.
This event concept designed specially, unique and differed. do not only limited to gathering of the motorcycles classic devotees,but invites all which presents to join in inflames national evocation hotly brotherhood.
community that is now has 5 chapter that is East Java, Sragen, Bali, Lombok and Bandung as mother chapter and has number of members is not less than 1400 personnels that is of course pertained wooooow!! and ever greater. though, in the early of forming of in the end of 1980 they are only amount to tens of peoples.
And the picture I've got you can see below or click here
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